Thursday

Don't hassle others.

Don't do it in the line up. And let that carry over into the rest of your life.

Lars and the 42 Crew

Wednesday

Eric and his 9'3

Eric likes his 9'3.
"I surfed it all day saturday and all day sunday at Malibu. Can you say speed sled?.......Love the board, so much fun to ride, holds like glue in the white water if you can't make the section. Overall, responsive, crazy speed once you get moving. Very fluid ride, can get her higher in the pocket quicker and stay there.
Thanks again for everything Lars. You're a man of your word and a great builder and shaper and someday I will be able to tell my grandkid the story of this board when he is riding it. Hope to catch a couple with you here in socal.

Next week hope to surf it at (NAME OMITTED), a special spot that you either walk a mile on the beach to get to it. or have someone with a key to the special gates that bring you through private prop. Like (NAME OMITTED)in San Diego.

Speak soon
Eric

PS Got a 2x4 for the living room and decided to walk on that instead. There was thick carpet between the floor and the board, but wil stay off the land surfing..... "

"Hi Eric,
I'm happy that your board is home. The membrane that you see in your plug is masking tape. They put that there when they glass so they won't fill the plug. Never surf without screwing in that plug! As far as how far to screw it in - it needs to be sealed. When you come out of the water and unscrew it before heading home, you will hear a distinct exhalation.
As far as walking on the board on land, I don't think I would do that. That just puts unnecessary stress on the board in a much more concentrated fashion than what you are doing in the water. In the water, all of that stress is spread over the whole board. On land you focus it between your heel and one spot.
The cracking you heard was definitely the glass flexing over the wood. If you have ever done that to a foam board, it would have done that too, but you wouldn't have heard it because the foam would absorb the sound of the cracking.
Your board is chambered down to right around 3/16ths of an inch throughout. This is much thinner than any other chambered boards that I know of. This lets us glass with two layers of 6 oz on top and one on the bottom as opposed to one 4 oz on each side. What we are doing by doing this is taking the weight that we are pulling out of the core and focusing it at the very outside of the board, right where you need the strength.
The weight might be similar to a chambered balsa or a heavy Tyler or Bing, but our weight is all at the surface. Still, I wouldn't walk on any board on land. Hope you had a good session on Saturday.

All the best,

Lars
42 Surfboards

"Lars, I just got the board.
Thank you so much for everything with this. I am heading out to Malibu to surf it. Can't wait.
Thanks again lars.
Best Eric
PS 2 tech questions about board
How tight do I screw in the plug on the rear of the board? Is there a something down the hole like a fabric membrane? It looks like they punctured it (the membrane) when they glassed the board.
When I put the board in my living room and walked on the deck it makes sound of the wood cracking or settling. I assume this is normal but I have never experienced this on a surfboard. Just checking to make sure all is cool with the board. ek"

Joe and the Black Sun Fish

Joe wrote the other day. He is the proud new owner of the Black Sun Fish.
Here is a bit of what he and I had to say:

hey lars,you crack me up,

i'm still laughing from the explanation of 42. i read hitchhikers guide a long time ago but it still rang a bell with me. maybe i should have phrased it as an answer. i know there were no underlying hints on my size... i was laughing at myself. last question i promise. is the epoxy job a gloss? reason i ask is the gloss foam boards i have always seems to get scratched up from my board bags... salt/sand etc. this board iwould like to try and keep it nice for obviousreasons. thanks for the excellent answers. you sold it. let meknow where to send the check. oh and snackles are what i call cracks that don't ding but leave a snowflake or sunburst pattern in the glassand cloth. if you could mail a bill of sale or receipt when youget my check i would appreciate it. when you get downhere to deliver we can work out the meet-up. in a month i'll be on schedule at work (la countylifeguard) up at zuma or malibu and not home (venice area) much.best, joe

Hi Joe,There were no underlying hints about your size. We are all exactly who we are. I am a little smaller than you and I surf this same shape in spruce in a 5'10. I'll shoot a few more pictures for you of the BlackSun fish. No problems there.

Our boards have all been glassed in resin research epoxy since early 2007. Before that, we glassed all of our boards in polyester. The epoxy is way stronger and as long as our glassers stay clean, it is a lot healthier for them as well. As far as heel dents go, I don't know that there is anything stronger than wood and epoxy. I have never seen one of our boards "dent" like a foam or balsa board.

I surf without a leash and one of the three spots that I surf most commonly is a long left rock point. In the winter, we sometimes have to wait for months before the swell will drop below 12 feet (my cut-off). Who knows what that means for faces on a rock point?! In any case, I do lose my board every now and then and when I do, it goes up on the rocks. If the rocks are sharp, the board can get a gash through the glass and epoxy and into the wood. If the rocks are round, the board can definitely pick up a ding. However, these are all things that can be ground out at the glass shop and repaired. I don't know what "snackling" is but you shouldn't walk on our boards in the living room. One of my clients liked to do that for some reason. There was no apparent damage to the board but he did hear crackling. Which could be similar to snackling... I'm not sure about that though.

The Black Sun fish has never been surfed. I did bring it with me to the Longboard Collectors Show in Pacific Beach two weeks ago. Of the ten boards that Ibrought, the Black Sun was the hit. The guys there all wanted our longboards though.

The Black Sun on this fish is covering two knots that are side by side. We love knots. Without them, people can't even see that your board is wood. They are what add the natural character to the board. However, whenever there is a large knot we glass it from the inside as well as from the outside. The way that we chamber boards though, doesn't let us see exactly what will be where when the board is finished. In this case, there were two largish knots next to eachother that I wanted to reinforce and fair out (Knots are much harder than the surrounding wood). So I ground down the knots, glassed them from the inside of the board, faired them out with epoxy thickened with spruce sawdust on the outside, painted the black sun, inlaid the abalone at the same time as the logo, and glassed the board with double 6 oz on the top and a single layer of 6 oz on the bottom. Bomber.

I didn't wrap the sun around the bottom because I didn't think about it. I've always done my art separate - top and bottom. I'll definitely wrap it around the rail next time though. That's a cool idea.

The vent is for flying or leaving your board in a hot car.

42 is the Latitude that separates Oregon from California. 42, according to Douglas Adams is the meaning of Life, The Universe, and Everything. 42 is probably how old I will be before I stop paying my employees out of my kids' college funds. 42 was the number on the license plate of my 1959 Chevy Apache. I don't know - what IS the significance of 42?

OK Joe. I've had enough of a break. Back to the woodpile.

All the best,

Lars42 Surfboards
www.42surfboards.com
www.42surfboards.blogspot.com

Monday

Open your eyes

Don’t close your eyes in the tube.

Open them wide. Stay focused on your goal, that spot 100 yards down the line out in the light. And let your peripheral vision take in all the sights that will come flooding back to you in dreams, day dreams, and visions. The lip folding over your head. The curve of the wall in front of you. The water falling on the far side of your board. The foam ball being kicked up and back by the crashing lip. All of these things are too priceless to be missed by just standing there and closing your eyes.

Plus you are much more likely to trip, fall, and go flying over the falls.

On the wave, as in life.

Lars and the 42 Crew

Eco-Iconic

Always in the lead, 42 Surfboards has most recently been described by some as ECO-ICONIC.

Not satisfied to be out filming eco-documentaries, performing carbon emission studies, or being part of the latest corporate greening initiatives, 42 Surfboards wanted to part of the solution. We don’t want to talk about it. We want to be in the thick of it. We are dedicated being part of the move from a wasteful, polluting economy to a sustainable one.

And so are our customers.

As all of the media attention of late has highlighted for us, consumers are way beyond simple ‘eco awareness’. It isn’t just treehuggers, and deep green celebrities that are into the change anymore. It is every one of our customers. These are surfers. Just like you and me.

According to Trendwatching.com, the trend (coincidence?) has gone something like this:

From ECO-UGLY (ugly, over-priced, low-performance, unsavory yet eco-friendly versions of the ‘real thing’) to ECO-CHIC (eco-friendly stuff that actually looks as nice and cool as the less sustainable originals) to now ECO-ICONIC.

ECO-ICONIC "Eco-friendly goods and services sporting bold, iconic markers and design, helping their eco-conscious owners show off their eco-credentials to their peers. At the heart of ECO-ICONIC is a status shift (isn’t there always?): many consumers are eager to flaunt their green behavior and possessions because there are now millions of other consumers who are actually impressed by green lifestyles.”

According to the above definition, ECO-ICONIC is exactly what 42 Surfboards is. It's not about bragging. It's about caring. Caring about where your board came from and what it was made of and how it was made. We are talking about sustainably harvested wood and abalone. Wind-powered office and shop. And beautiful surfboards flying across beautiful waves.

We are green. We’re stoked to be green. And we are stoked to build boards for surfers that care that we are green.

Then again, we’re just as stoked to build classic wood surfboards for our customers that just enjoy a long screaming-fast ride from one end of the point to the other. Standing tall on the nose. Hand in the lip. Eyes tearing. Hair flying.

I guess nothing’s changed after all…

See you out there.

Lars and the 42 Crew.

Men's Journal

Claire from Men's Journal called with some questions the other day. Something about a coming article about wood boards...

Here's what we had to say:

Hi Claire,

Thanks for your questions. They are very timely. If you need photos of wood boards, feel free to use anything off of our website or blog. If you click on the photos on the blog, you'll usually get carried to a hi-res version.

42 Surfboards is here today because of the eco-movement in surfing and in the world. Our goal is to build surfboards that are as easy on the environment as they are fun to ride. And so far so good!

Although I believe we build more 100% wood surfboards than anyone else in the world, we don't do it to be retro. We don't do it to be cool. And we don't do it because it is the latest thing to hit the surfing world. We build surfboards from wood because it is a fantastic sustainable material that surfs great.

Unlike many companies that shape a wood board every now and then, 42 Surfboards only builds chambered wood surfboards. When the day comes that we introduce another line of boards, it will only be because we have come up with something that is even more environmentally friendly.

Pushing our work further and further in the direction of being 100% green is the most important thing at 42 Surfboards. And it isn't something that is new to us. Our lead designer, Forrest Hubler, has one degree in environmental science and is working on a second one in mechanical engineering. Our lead shaper, Lars Bergstrom, has a masters degree in environmental science and a PhD in environmental and natural resource sciences. We are serious!

And if it isn't green enough for you that your shaper has a PhD in environmental science, Lars has been shaping surfboards for over twenty years. We are serious and we know what we are doing.

42's wood surfboards are designed to last a long time. They are super fun to ride. They are beautiful. They didn't get pulled out of the top of an oil well. And they didn't kill the poor guy who built the blank.

Here at 42 Surfboards, all we build are chambered wooden surfboards. That is just what we build though. In everything we do, our focus on sustainability. This means we not only maximize the resources that we use but also our time on the water. Because if we aren't having fun, our customers won't keep getting the most beautiful surfboards in the world.

Beyond having a good time at and around work though, sustainability directs where we get our materials from, where we buy our energy from, what we do with our waste, how we glass our boards, and even what our coming designs will look like. And every day, we get a little better.

After the huge storms of last winter, our wood is coming primarily from blown down trees that we harvest ourselves. We power both our offices and our shop with power generated by windturbines. We glass our boards with super-durable, low VOC epoxy. And we are always looking for the next step.

At the center of this approach though, lies the quality of our surfboards. At 42 Surfboards, our boards are built to serve as high-speed surf vehicles, shockingly beautiful art, and heirlooms. We want these boards to be passed down to our customers' grandkids.

By always questioning our business approach and our durability, we hope to reach our goal of not only having the least environmental impact of any board builder on the planet but to actually have a net positive impact on both our local and global environment.

42 Surfboards is small, but we are not little. We are loud and we always carry a big stick. One of those sticks is the money that we donate to the Surfrider Foundation, Sea Shepherd, and local environmental causes. In 2007, we donated over 6% of our sales to these causes, investing directly in the world we want to live in. This is a quote from a 2007 interview with Phoresia.org;

"Edward Abbey once said something on the order of "Constant growth is the philosophy of a cancer cell." I admire Yvon Chouinard and "Let my people go surfing" is required reading for all of our employees at 42 Surfboards. But I greatly admire the work of Edward Abbey and 42 Surfboards is not here to grow. 42 Surfboards is not here to become some mega-conglomerate. 42 Surfboards is here to build surfboards, be a great place to work, and show that you can have a positive impact on the environment while feeding your kids and doing something you love.

Being part of Sea Shepherd and The Surfrider Foundation are not something we do for image or marketing. These fantastic groups are actually part of our reason for existing. It is thrilling to take part of our earnings and commit them to real on-the-ground activism. At the same time though, it is an investment that any business that actually cares about our environment can't afford to miss. Just as David Brower said "There is no business to be done on a dead planet", there are no waves to be ridden in a dead ocean. We hope that all of our colleagues will join us in supporting Sea Shepherd and The Surfrider Foundation."

There is some notion that this idea of wood boards is new to surfing. That couldn't be further from the truth. The natural stoke that someone gets when they see one of our boards for the first time is something that I swear sits on a surfer's DNA. Surfboards have been built out of wood for 4000 years. And once people catch on to how fun wood boards are to ride and how much easier they are on the world around them, foam will be relegated to a blip on the surfing timeline. A foamy anomoly. Foam is the new kid on the block, not wood.

Wood is nicer to shape and it doesn't get stuck under your eyelids (although balsa and agave dust are pretty awful to work around). Wood is easier on the eye, easier on the planet, and easier under foot.

At 42 Surfboards we are surfers. We are scientists. We are fifth generation wood workers. And our customers are surfers who enjoy the fruits of our wierd culmination.

42 Surfboards has gone beyond the call of duty with our wood surfboards. Our boards are not only green, super durable, and build from beautiful wood, the boards are handcrafted to the tightest tolerances imaginable. Again, from Phoresia.org:

"No blank builders to date have ever been able to build chambered wood blanks to the specifications that we are today. Between this and using crystal clear epoxy and bomber layups, our boards are burly but are very light. Not as light as the imported pop-out you can find on Isle 11 at Sprawlmart, but so light that I constantly have to remind people in the shop to be careful. Otherwise they grab the board and, thinking that they are going to be lifting a log, they ram it solidly up into the ceiling. Sheepishly.

I have no clue what the volumes of our boards are. Our shapes are typically a little thicker with a little fuller rail than many of the other boards that you see in the water. This has less to do with the fact that we shape in wood and more to do with the idea that I like to build cheaters. Cheaters are boards that ride so well and so easy and grab you so many waves, that you feel like you are cheating. The rest of the world can feel like they are "progressing" by sitting neck deep in the lineup on their quad-fin skimboard. Don't think I am not stoked to have them out there - I use that poor guy as my bouy marker so I know where to sit when I come back from my 50th wave of the session.

For 42 Surfboards, sustainability is the only morally acceptable option. We are not doing what we are doing because some marketing consultant told us that it would sell. This is what is right. And this is what we do.

The surfers that agree have made us the single largest builder of wood surfboards in the world. Every month we build more boards than we did the month before. And every month those boards take the place of more foam boards out in the line-up. People ask me from time to time if we are afraid of the giant pop-out builders in Thailand stealing our niche. Worried? No way! If anything, I hope they try. As a start though, they would have to do it without using pirated lumber out of Burma. That's what their accountants would try to get them to do.

You see, in order to do what we do, you have to mean it. Even if it costs more to do it that way. Our customers know that when we build our boards like we do, we mean it. And if the giant suppliers of cookier cutter boards suddenly change their tune and want to become environmentally conscious, and they mean it, I won't feel ripped off. I'll be stoked! That would be fantastic.

Nobody can smell a fraud better than surfers though. So if someone goes claiming to be green, they better be serious. Or they better prepare to be roasted by the most unappologetic group I have ever had the pleasure of being part of.

If you have any other questions Claire, let me know and I'll get back with you later this weekend.


All the best,

Lars
42 Surfboards
www.42surfboards.com
www.42surfboards.blogspot.com