Come off the bottom with power!
Come off the bottom with speed and power.
This is important in life and surfing. If all you do is enjoy the drop and then have the wave catch you, it is going to roll you. In surfing and life. However, if you realize that every wave has a top, a bottom, and is moving, you will also realize the importance of coming off the bottom with power and speed.
You only get one shot at it per wave and it will make all the difference in your ride. So take the opportunities that come your way.
Enjoy the drop, by all means. But then set your rail, pick your spot somewhere further down the wave, bend your knees, and take off for that spot at full speed. Point your arms where you want to go and don’t let your eyes drift from your goal. On the wave or in life.
Life is short. You are good. Ride a board that makes you proud.