Monday

Open your eyes

Don’t close your eyes in the tube.

Open them wide. Stay focused on your goal, that spot 100 yards down the line out in the light. And let your peripheral vision take in all the sights that will come flooding back to you in dreams, day dreams, and visions. The lip folding over your head. The curve of the wall in front of you. The water falling on the far side of your board. The foam ball being kicked up and back by the crashing lip. All of these things are too priceless to be missed by just standing there and closing your eyes.

Plus you are much more likely to trip, fall, and go flying over the falls.

On the wave, as in life.

Lars and the 42 Crew

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