Rules for getting through the shorebreak in a 30 foot panga:

1. Be careful out there. This is for keeps.

2. You are in the middle of nowhere. Hang on to that rail like you mean it.

3. Put the rocks out of your mind, but know that they are there.

4. Don't fall out of the boat. If you do fall out of the boat, get the hell away from the outboard motor.

5. If you are flying through the air, don't land on the anchor.

6. Now, play it like you mean it and know that there are no second chances to do what you are going to do right now.

7. Don't worry - today's swell is super small.

42 Surfboards

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