Appreciate the surfs you get with your buddies. The time you get with your friends. There won’t be as many as you think. Think back on the sessions you have had. I bet you can remember a handful of them with your best friends that really stand out. That’s how it is in life, I think. You don’t get as many days as it might seem in the beginning. Make them count. And make sure there are as many good ones as possible.
Life is short. You are good. Ride a board that makes you proud.