There is a little swell on the way. It isn't very big but it makes me think of winter and the big surf we get then.
Don’t be afraid of big surf. The rewards are so much greater than the punishment that not going isn’t really even an option. I have only caught ten or so really giant waves in my life and I remember every one of them in perfect detail. In fact, they are among the only things in my life that I remember with such clarity.
Life is short. You are good. Ride a board that makes you proud.