This winter has been exceptional for big waves. I love being out in the water when it is big. I love riding big waves, of course, but I also love the physical metaphor that riding big waves offers for life.
You can never give up until its really over. The drop. The barrel. The floater. The air. The paddle out. The injury. Getting sucked out the rip. Swimming in. The double wave hold-down. The leash tied around the coral head. The board sucked down a hole in the jetty. The buddy getting bashed into the cliff. The guy lifeless on the beach. The school work. The house work. Raising good kids. The schedule that you just can’t seem to pull together.
Giving up means its over. Giving up means that this is how it is. How it ends. Don’t let that happen.
Keep on paddling!
And keep on riding some beautiful big waves. In life and on the water.
Lars and the 42 Crew